{"id":62478,"date":"2015-10-05T10:39:36","date_gmt":"2015-10-05T02:39:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/?p=62478"},"modified":"2016-05-31T10:29:30","modified_gmt":"2016-05-31T14:29:30","slug":"from-nudity-to-origami-paris-fashion-week-has-it-all","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/2015\/10\/05\/from-nudity-to-origami-paris-fashion-week-has-it-all\/","title":{"rendered":"From nudity to origami, Paris Fashion Week has it all"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Kenzo's<\/a>
Kenzo’s spring-summer 2016 collection (Photo from Instagram\/@ljlevogue<\/a>)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

PARIS \u2013 From exposed breasts to Japanese origami to the ration-era Forties, Sunday\u2019s installment of VIP-filled Paris Fashion Week had it all. Here are the spring-summer 2016 collection highlights.<\/p>\n

Kenzo\u2019s delicate precision<\/strong><\/p>\n

Clean white geometric arches that looked almost cut from paper greeted rather fatigued guests in the large auditorium at Kenzo\u2019s Sunday morning show in Northern Paris.<\/p>\n

The idea of paper was perhaps closely melded to the creative process for Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, who produced a highly creative show with plays on origami cutouts. It was certainly worth the early morning trek.<\/p>\n

As ever, for the house founded by Japanese designer Kenzo Takada, styles were Asia-infused.<\/p>\n

Segments in contrasting patterns produced the first looks which included one Burmese-looking tight knee-length dress.<\/p>\n

The creative juices got flowing with the introduction of a white lattice top with tiny, delicate cut outs, which looked like it had been made according to the Japanese paper folding traditions. It was beautifully set off with a funky studded mini in ochre with matching pockets \u2013 a neat template for the collection\u2019s general silhouette: tight, mini and gently A-line.<\/p>\n

This origami effect recurred on space-age white and ochre stripper boots that were desexualized with sandal heels and a crisscross pattern.<\/p>\n

Patterns were also standout \u2013 like in a series of looks that channeled a sort of electrified hounds-tooth with bright blue and black pixilation.<\/p>\n

The designers let their hair down toward the end in a deft series of floppy, amorphous gowns with fluttery interlocking strips of fabric \u2013 which show why Kenzo is still one of the funkiest tickets in town.<\/p>\n

Celine\u2019s ingenious fourties<\/strong><\/p>\n

Dior\u2019s 1949 New Look \u2013 when post-war rationing ended and full length dresses came back \u2013 is normally the earlier chronological starting point for the day\u2019s diverse catwalk styles.<\/p>\n

Celine\u2019s designer, the ever-creative Pheobe Philo, bucked this trend.<\/p>\n

Philo on Sunday wowed guests by putting surreal, contemporary twists on designs from the ration-era Forties.<\/p>\n

Puffy gathered sleeves, shorter hems to mid-calf, and tight shirts with loose, full-waisted pants were fashioned in pre-World War II hues of dark gray, navy, black and camel.<\/p>\n

Proportions were exaggerated and elongated like subjects from the painter Modigliani \u2013 extra-narrow waists with chiseled vertical panels, wide scooped necklines that pointed at the side, or gathered sleeves that spilled over the upper arm.<\/p>\n

Stand-out looks included a gray \u201csiren suit\u201d jumpsuit that British subjects would put on hurriedly to seek shelter during WWII air raids, modernized with funky zippers, and a trench coat that might have been worn by Marlene Dietrich, were it not for its fashion-forward large volume.<\/p>\n

Empire-line blouses were thrown into the mix to make this one of the most thoughtful collections this season.<\/p>\n

Designer\u2019s apartment<\/strong><\/p>\n

Paris is the city of Louis Vuitton, Dior and Chanel \u2013 but it\u2019s also a champion of young designers.<\/p>\n

France\u2019s powerful French Couture Federation is co-sponsoring an event called \u201cDesigners Apartment\u201d that lasts for the duration of Paris Fashion Week.<\/p>\n

It promotes up and coming talents that would otherwise be swallowed up in the maelstrom of multi-million dollar labels and groups such as Kering and LMVH.<\/p>\n

For the spring-summer 2016 season, a building in Paris\u2019 2nd district has been set aside to showcase walk-in ateliers and exhibits by a whole swathe of talented designers such as A.Guery, Koche, Maison P\u00e8re, Monographie, Victoria\/Tomas and Y\/Project.<\/p>\n

Koche, for example, has used this platform to gain recognition in parallel to their first on-calendar catwalk show last Monday.<\/p>\n

\u201cDesigners Apartment\u201d is in its seventh edition.<\/p>\n

Nina Ricci\u2019s sheer sensuality<\/strong><\/p>\n

A foxy belted, shiny coat showing d\u00e9collet\u00e9 and worn with nothing else underneath was the opening statement at Nina Ricci \u2013 a sign that in only his second show for the historic brand, talented designer Guillaume Henry is steering the boat away from gamine nostalgia.<\/p>\n

Exposed nipples and shoulders, glimmering waxed leather and yards of sheer organza spelt full-throttle sensuality in the Saturday night show that was well-received by the audience, which included model and actress Laetitia Casta.<\/p>\n

Black aprons and rhinestone-encrusted straps filed by alongside fluttering embroidered feathers, evoking a contradiction of the aggressive versus the soft and feminine.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

PARIS \u2013 From exposed breasts to Japanese origami to the ration-era Forties, Sunday\u2019s installment of VIP-filled Paris Fashion Week had …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":33,"featured_media":62479,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[36],"tags":[35],"class_list":["post-62478","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-fashion-and-beauty","tag-original","mauthors-thomas-adamson","mauthors-the-associated-press"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/62478","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/33"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=62478"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/62478\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/62479"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=62478"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=62478"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/canadianinquirer.net\/v1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=62478"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}