Milan fashion houses seek out their roots in new collections

Milan fashion houses seek out their roots in new collections (Photo: Celebrity Style by toujours ensemble/Facebook)

MILAN—This is the season of renewal, with new faces at some of Milan’s top fashion brands.

New creative directors made their debuts Sunday during the second day of Milan Fashion Week at Salvatore Ferragamo and Dirk Bikkembergs, a day after Marni set off in a new direction.

Roberto Cavalli and Brioni, meanwhile, took a runway break this season as they worked out what their future creative directions would be after parting ways with their stylists.

Here are some highlights of menswear previews for next fall and winter on Sunday, the second day of Milan Fashion Week.

BACK TO ROOTS

He landed in America as a teen and thrust himself into the melting pot, where he had his first success.

The story of a young Salvatore Ferragamo, who started out making shoes for Hollywood before returning to Italy to launch his fashion brand, inspired French designer Guillaume Meilland’s debut collection as menswear design director.

The clean looks followed Ferragamo’s journey from a carefree youth to the more put-together sophistication of an experienced traveller.

Youthful touches included rough embroidery in contrasting kinetic lines on the backs of jackets or on shirts worn with tailored suits. The silhouette was boxy with square jackets over loose pants.The embroidery translates the busy-ness of the street. The show is about Salvatore on the street, a young man on the street, and the allegory of the busy-ness is translated in the diversity of the boy’s silhouettes,” Meilland said.

“The embroidery translates the busy-ness of the street. The show is about Salvatore on the street, a young man on the street, and the allegory of the busy-ness is translated in the diversity of the boy’s silhouettes,” Meilland said.

Boyish sweaters tucked into trousers, or hung out of the back of jackets, for a dash-about feel. Bulky knit mittens exuded hominess.

The collection is strong on the brand’s trademark leather garments, featuring flight jackets and biker jackets. Shoes included an American-style work boot with thick sole covered with rubber studs, alongside finer Italian footwear.

“I want to bring the idea of ease, of comfort, to menswear,” Meilland said backstage. “I want to get rid of conformity.”

UTILITARIAN HIP

British designer Lee Wood has infused the Dirk Bikkemberg’s brand with a northern European utilitarian hipness, clothes for the urbanite on the go.

The clean collection marked a new era for the Belgian brand, with sharply defined silhouettes.

“It is masculine, authoritative, authentic, strong, relaxed and true,” Wood said backstage. “I like essential fashion. This reflects in the clothes.”

Suit jackets buttoned off-skew and featured big outside pockets. They were paired with slim pants when short, and baggy trousers when long.

Cargo pants had a jean fit, creating a workman look when worn with a boxy jacket. Zip up turtlenecks offered extra protection against the elements under suits. Shearling jackets and parkas balanced volume with slim leggings.

“A guy today, he needs to go out. He needs to get on the motorbike. He needs to go on the metro. Utilitarian is that,” Wood said.

The thick knitwear was fashioned from merino wool, chenille and mohair. Zip pockets on elbow patches added a level of cool functionality.

The colour palette included reassuring tones of camel, black, white and navy with flashes of orange—useful for the urbanite in evening traffic.